Рис в Средневековье |
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Рис в Средневековье |
Griet |
15.4.2007, 15:10
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#1
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Участник Группа: Пользователи Сообщений: 1 464 Регистрация: 24.2.2007 Пользователь №: 18 Город: г.Троицк, Красная Пахра, Москва. Военно-историческая группа (XV): Рота Св.Фомы Репутация: 12 |
Не раз мне задавался вопрос - аутентичен :) ли рис и каково было его распросттранение и использование.
Отвечаю: Рис был, но использовался в очень ограниченном количестве и был доступен только зажиточным гражданам, такой вывод можно сделать из того что все рецепты ч его использованием предполагали наличие дорогих ингридиентов( таких как например миндаль и сахар).
Выдержка о распространении риса:
http://www.florilegium.org/files/FOOD-BREADS/rice-msg.html
The Arabs introduced rice from India to Spain, Cyprus and Sicily. The
initial conquests in India were in 712. Spain was invaded in 711. Cyprus
was taken around 683. And Sicily was taken in the 9th Century. So rice was likely introduced to Spain and Cyprus early in the 8th Century and Sicily some time in the 9th Century.
There was an abortive attempt to grow rice in Southern France late in
period.
Rice was a secondary grain because it was not used to make bread and most of Europe had to import it.
Приведу ссылочки на рецепты блюд с рисом:
ИТАЛИЯ ( Libro di cucina, XIV)
[b:d0cf092481] LXI A good way for rice [/b:d0cf092481]
If you want to make rice in the best way that you can, if it is for twelve people take two pounds of rice and two (pounds) of almonds and half a pound of sugar. Take the peeled (husked) rice and wash it well. Take the almonds, peel, wash, grind and temper with clear water and strain through a sieve (prepare almond milk). Take the rice and put it on the fire in clean water, when it rises to the boil for the first time, and is boiling well, strain out the water that it contains and put in the almond milk. Continue to cook slowly on the coals (off the fire) and mix carefully so that the rice doesn’t break. When it has soaked up the almond milk and it is just about cooked add the quantity of sugar. This dish should be white and simple and when it is cooked powder with sugar above for serving.
[b:d0cf092481]XXIV Maize dish (Frumenty) good and very useful. [/b:d0cf092481]
If you want to make frumenty, take the wheat berries, and grind/beat it well until the husk lifts, then wash it well. Put it to boil in water, but don’t boil it too much, then pour away the water. Then add inside the fat of whichever animal you wish, and you want to make sure that you don’t add too much. Add sweet and strong spices, and saffron, and if you don’t have wheat then you can take[b:d0cf092481] rice[/b:d0cf092481], and it will be good.
[b:d0cf092481]V. Blancmange. [/b:d0cf092481]
If you want to make blancmange for twelve people, take four pounds of almonds, one pound of rice, four hens (chickens), two pounds of grease (lard), a pound and a half of sugar and half a quarter (of an ounce) of cloves. Peel the almonds, reserve some whole, grind the remainder and prepare almond milk by soaking with clean water and straining. Take rice that has been hulled, picked over, washed with hot water and dried and grind to a fine powder and strain. Take the chickens that have been cut into pieces and boil them a little. Shred the cooked chicken meat finely and fry gently in the grease. Meanwhile put most of the almond milk in a pan and bring to a boil. Mix the reserved, cold, almond milk with the rice flour and allow it soak. When the almond milk boils mix it with the soaked rice flour and return to the pan. Boil the rice flour and almond milk together until it thickens, immediately add the shredded fried chicken and the fat from the pan. Mix this mixture frequently to prevent burning and sticking and add the sugar. When the dish is cooked pour into a bowl to serve. Dress the dish with rosewater, sugar, the reserved almonds that have been fried and cloves. This dish should be very white like snow and potent with spices.
[b:d0cf092481]XXXIV Perfectly good chopped/battered herbs, etc. [/b:d0cf092481]
If you want to make perfect and good chopped herbs *. Take peeled almonds, grind them and strain them (the milk), and take two ounces of rice which has been ground to flour. And also take the breast of a capon (cooked) and pull it into filaments. Mix the [b:d0cf092481]rice[/b:d0cf092481] flour with the almond milk and put it to boil and add the filaments of capon flesh, and let it boil well. And when you are ready to serve it up, put sugar above it in the bowl and powder with enough spices. And if you don’t have[b:d0cf092481] rice[/b:d0cf092481] then add enough almonds that it is good and thick, etc.
* - There may have been a copying error in this document's past, there probably was a recipe for chopped/battered herbs, unfortunately it was a recipe for blancmange which was actually copied here.
[b:d0cf092481]LXXII Perfect and fantastic Sambugado (elderflower scented dish) that one serves in platters [/b:d0cf092481]
If you want to make a sambugado to serve in platters for twelve people. Take a pan (*pentola) of fresh sheep’s or goat’s milk, a pound of rice, a pound and a half of lard, three ounces * of sugar, and well mature elder flowers. Take the milk, that you have strained/sieved and put it to boil. When it has come to a boil the first thing that you add is the ground rice, the second the elder flowers, the third the melted lard and the fourth the quantity of sugar and add tempered saffron *. This dish should be (served) hot and should be thick, sweet and flavored well with the flowers.
АНГЛИЯ (Utilis Coquinario, XIV)
[b:d0cf092481]Blawmanger [/b:d0cf092481]
ORIGINAL RECEIPT:
Blawmanger. Tak þe two del of rys, þe thridde pert of almoundes; wash clene þe rys in leuk water & turne & seth hem til þay breke & lat it kele, & tak þe melk & do it to þe rys & boyle hem togedere. & do þerto whit gres & braun of hennes grounde smale, & stere it wel, & salte it & dresch it in disches. & frye almaundes in fresch gres til þey be browne, & set hem in þe dissches, & strawe þeron sugre & serue it forth.
- Hieatt, Constance B. and Sharon Butler. Curye on Inglish: English Culinary Manuscripts of the Fourteenth-Century (Including the Forme of Cury). London: For the Early English Text Society by the Oxford University Press, 1985.
GODE COOKERY TRANSLATION:
Blancmange. Take two parts of rice, the third part of almonds; wash the rice clean in lukewarm water & turn & boil them til they break and let cool, & take milk and add to the rice and boil together. Add white grease & ground dark chicken meat, & stir well, & salt it and place it in dishes. Fry almonds in fresh grease until brown, & set them in the dishes, and strew on sugar & serve it.
MODERN RECIPE:
[b:d0cf092481]1 cup rice
3 cups Almond Milk
1 cup ground cooked chicken, dark meat only
dash salt
1/4 cup fried slivered almonds
sugar to garnish[/b:d0cf092481]
Bring to a boil the rice, milk, & salt. Reduce heat, stir in chicken, & cover; allow to cook, stirring occasionally, until liquid is absorbed and rice is fluffy. Garnish with almonds and a sprinkle of sugar.
Judging by the many versions of this recipe that appear in period cookbooks, it is certain that most (if not all) medieval cooks were at least familiar with this dish. By the strictest definition, Blawmanger (also known as blankmanger) is any bland, white pottage based on almond milk, and (except for a few fish-day versions) contains ground poultry, thickened with rice flour; the standard English flesh-day version was ground capon (or chicken) with rice and almond milk. In some recipes the poultry is in chunks, rather than ground up. Today's modern blancmange is a type of rice-pudding dessert, much beloved by the English, and only bears a slight resemblance to its medieval forerunner
-------------------- To recreate the medieval period without compromise.(с)The Company of St. George
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Griet |
15.4.2007, 15:42
Сообщение
#2
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Участник Группа: Пользователи Сообщений: 1 464 Регистрация: 24.2.2007 Пользователь №: 18 Город: г.Троицк, Красная Пахра, Москва. Военно-историческая группа (XV): Рота Св.Фомы Репутация: 12 |
АНГЛИЯ(Forme of Cury, 14th century)
[b:11577de66a]Ryse of flessh [/b:11577de66a]
ORIGINAL RECEIPT:
[b:11577de66a] Ryse of flessh.[/b:11577de66a] Take ryse and waisshe hem clene, and do hem in an erthen pot with gode broth and lat hem seeþ wel. Aftirward take almaund mylke and do þerto, and colour it wiþ safroun & salt, & messe forth.
GODE COOKERY TRANSLATION:
[b:11577de66a]Rice Cooked in Meat Broth.[/b:11577de66a] Take rice, washed and drained, and place in an earthenware pot with good broth and bring to a boil, cooking until done. When done, add almond milk, saffron, & salt, and serve.
Увы, в процессе исследование не найдено ни одного рецепта средневекового плова :lol:
MODERN RECIPE:
[b:11577de66a]1 cup rice
2 cups Gode Broth (made without bread crumbs)
1 cup Almond Milk
½ tsp. salt
1/8 tsp. saffron[/b:11577de66a]
Bring to a boil the rice and the broth; cook over low heat until rice is tender and the liquid is absorbed. Stir in remaining ingredients and serve.
Такой вот незатейливый гарнир.
http://www.nicomarin.com/ricette/ric340_e.htm
In his text, Martino first presents a recipe for cooking rice in "meat broth", and then the above formula using almond milk. This dish was probably intended for serving on meatless days and during Lent, or was destined for people who were ill. Rice had only recently become popular in Martino's time. Introduced into Europe by the Arabs, it began to be cultivated in Sicily in the XIII century and did not reach northern Italy or the Po valley (where it found favourable conditions for its development) until the XV century.
ОРИГИНАЛ:
Per farne dece menestre, togli una libra de amandole et mondale bene che siano bianche. Et togli meza libra di riso, et lavalo doi o tre volte con acqua tepida, et ponilo al focho con acqua chiara et fallo ben cocere: Dapoi caccial fore et ponilo a sciucchare. Dapoi pista molto bene le ditte amandole bagnandole et sbroffandole di sopra spesso con un pocha d'acqua frescha, acciochè non facciano olio; et distemperale con acqua frescha et passale per la stamegnia et mitti a bollire questo lacte in una pignatta giongendovi meza libra di zucharo fino. Et como comincia a bollire mittivi dentro il riso et poni la pignatta sopra la brascia longi dal focho voltando spesso col cocchiaro acciò che non pigli fume, et fallo bollire per spatio de meza hora. Similimente poterai cocere lo ditto riso con lacte di capra o con altro lacte.
ПЕРЕВОД:
To prepare ten portions, get a pound of almonds and peel them so that they are white. Get half a pound of rice, rinse it two or three times in lukewarm water and boil it in clear water until it is well done. Then, remove it from the water and set it out to dry. Finely grind the almonds, but moisten them often with sprays of cool water so that they do not release their oil. Now, add the proper amount of cold water and filter the mixture through a strainer. Next, heat this almond milk in a pot while adding half a pound of sugar, and pour in the rice when the mixture begins to boil. Be sure to place the pot far away from the flame and stir often with a ladle so that the mixture does not get a smoky taste. Let boil for half an hour. You can use the same method to cook rice in goat's milk or any other kind of milk.
Культурологическая справка про рисовый пуддинг из книги
"Sauerkraut Yankees: Pennsylvania Dutch Foods and Foodways"
by Guy. Lionnet, William Woys Weaver
In the oldest surviving German cookbook, the great codex known as [b:11577de66a]Daz bunch von guoter spize[/b:11577de66a] (Book of Goodly Viands), written sometime between 1345 and 1354, there are several rice recipes. In that period, rice was definitely [b:11577de66a]an expensive alternative for meatless days, a luxury food for the court and nobility.[/b:11577de66a] Yet it was probably this very aspect of luxury in the Middle Ages that gave rice and rice puddings such a special place in later traditional cookery.
Gunter Wiegelmann noted in his Alltags- und Festspeisen (Everyday and Festival Foods) that rice pudding played a colorful role in the folk cookery of rural Germany. I0° As a symbol of wealth and good luck— harking back to its status as a luxury food in the Middle Ages—[b:11577de66a]rice pudding was often served at wedding banquets[/b:11577de66a]. Since rice also had associations with fertility, this connection with the rite of marriage was consistent with the folk perspective of things.
-------------------- To recreate the medieval period without compromise.(с)The Company of St. George
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