Льняная одежда: давайте разберемся Опции

[John Hockwood]

Друзья!
Помогите разобраться с вопросом о льняной верхней одежде в конце 15 века. Хочется чтобы она была, и вроде бы должна быть, но чо говорят источники?

Вот шоссы из Альпирсбаха, 1490-1529. Коричневая льняная саржа





Ну и та самая жилетка из Берна


Но она видимо носилась под жак (?)

Подскажите, что нам говорят письменные источники об использовании льна для верхней одежды?

Сообщение отредактировал Griet - 25.4.2011, 21:23

[Griet]

Title: Medieval records of a London city church : churchwardens' accounts and memoranda
Author: London (England). St. Mary at Hill (Church)

CHURCHWARDENS' ACCOUNTS.
A.D. 1489-90.

ffirst, paide for a n[b:b7e2c84f2d]ewe doblet of canvas[/b:b7e2c84f2d] for Robert, xvj d.

...

Item, for iij quarter of j ell canvas, ij d quarter for [b:b7e2c84f2d]doblet [/b]for Robert.

Кстати про одежду из Альпирсбаха - я выкладывала тут:

http://www.tforum.info/forum/index.php?
showtopic=5484&hl=Alpirsbach&st=120

Там не только льянные шоссы, но и льняной вамс и рубашки.
Кстати, Альпирсбах - это город в Южной Германии - центре производства льна и хлопка)

Но эта одежда - уже 16 го века!

А что - нибудь известно об этом артефакте?Кроме того что это Германия, 1450 примерно.



Про смесовые ткани:
http://books.google.com/books?id=99s8AAAAI...q=linen&f=false

В письмах пастонов упоминаются дублеты из фастиана наряду с перечислением конской амуниции.Есть так же просто упоминание арминг дублета.

INVENTORY OF GOODS STOLEN Soon after 1465, 10, 17

Item, a dobelet of blak fusteyn, a hors harnys vj s., a gray hors price xl s., ij shertys price iiij s. Will Bedford

TO JOHN PASTON III 1473, 06, 03

Item, j dowbelet of fustian [...] Item, a dowblet of fostian [...] Item, ij dowbelettes (Inventory, not long after 1473)

He schal have noo schirte up on him but a dowbelet of ffustean lynyd with satene cutte full of hoolis. The dowblet muste be strongeli boude there the poyntis muste be sette aboute the greet of the arme. And the b ste before and beyhnde and the gussetis of mayle muste be sowid un to the dowbelet in the bought of the arme. And undir the arme the armynge poyntis muste be made of fyne twyne suche as men make stryngis for crossbowes and they muste be trussid small and poyntid as poyntis. Also they muste be wexid with cordeweneris coode. And than they woll neythirrecche nor breke. Also a payre hosyn of stamyn sengill and a peyre of shorte bulwerkis of thynne blanket to put aboute his kneys for chawfygeof his ligherness. Also a payre of shone of thikke cordwene and they muste be frette with smal whipcorde thre knottis up on a corde and thre coordis muste be faste sowid un to the hele of the shoo and fyne cordis in the mydill of the soole of the same shoo and that there be between the frettis of the heele and the frettis of the myddill of the shoo the space of thre fyngris."

How a man schall be armyd at his ese when he schal fighte on foote, c.1450, England

Перевод на совр. англ.

He shall have no shirt upon him except for a doublet of fustian lined with satin, cut full of holes. The doublet must be strongly built; the points must be set at the break in the arm in the front and back. To lace the gussets of mail must be sewn onto the doublet also at the break in the arm and at the underarm.
The arming points must be made of fine twine like that with which men make strings for crossbows. These points must have tips for lacing. And they must be waxed with leather-workers's [cood?], such that they will neither stretch nor break. And he should wear a pair of hose made of worsted cloth. Around the knees should be wrapped ' bulwarks' of thin blankets to reduce the chafing by the leg harness. He should wear a pair of thick shoes, provided with points sewn on the heel and in the middle of the sole to a space of three fingers.

(1463) Acc.Howard in RC 57 158: Fusten..ffor to make doblettys off ffence.

(1463-4) Acc.Howard in RC 57 239: I toke to the dobelete maker..to make me a dobelete of fense, fore hevery for qwarter xviij folde theke of wyte fostyen, and iiij fold of lenen klothe, and a folde of blake fostyen to pote wethe howete.

Сообщение отредактировал Griet - 26.4.2011, 8:51