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Здравствуйте, гость ( Вход | Регистрация )
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John Hockwood |
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Сообщение
#1
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![]() Участник ![]() ![]() Группа: Пользователи Сообщений: 1 283 Регистрация: 15.2.2006 Пользователь №: 70 047 Город: Санкт-Петербург Военно-историческая группа (XV): Белый Отряд. Английские солдаты Войны Роз 1461-1485 Репутация: ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Друзья!
Помогите разобраться с вопросом о льняной верхней одежде в конце 15 века. Хочется чтобы она была, и вроде бы должна быть, но чо говорят источники? Вот шоссы из Альпирсбаха, 1490-1529. Коричневая льняная саржа ![]() Ну и та самая жилетка из Берна ![]() Но она видимо носилась под жак (?) Подскажите, что нам говорят письменные источники об использовании льна для верхней одежды? Сообщение отредактировал Griet - 25.4.2011, 21:23 -------------------- Honi soit qui mal y pense
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Griet |
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Сообщение
#2
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![]() Участник ![]() ![]() Группа: Пользователи Сообщений: 1 464 Регистрация: 24.2.2007 Пользователь №: 18 Город: г.Троицк, Красная Пахра, Москва. Военно-историческая группа (XV): Рота Св.Фомы Репутация: ![]() ![]() ![]() |
В книге по текстилю и одежде иесть упоминание льняных шосс.
[quote]The excavation of the tomb of a Mer-ovingian princess, possibly Queen Arnegunde, who was buried c. 565-70 in the cathedral of St Denis, France, revealed that she was laid out wearing linen hose secured below both knees with leather cross-gartering garnished with silver buckles and strap ends (France-Lanord & Fleury 1962, 345, 354, fig 3; Werner 1964, 212-14, figs 11, 12).[/quote] В книгах по итальянской моде и текстилю есть масса отсылок на одежду из льна и хлопка. Из книги Жаклин Херальд(Dress in Renaissance Italy, 1400-1500, by Jacqueline Herald, printed by Humanities Press: NJ, 1981. ): [quote]GUARNELLO (M/F). Both a kind of linen or cotton textile, and the feminine garment constructed from such a fabric. The guarnello probably has the same significance as a rascia. It is a simple, reasonably loose-fitting dress, similar to the cotta, but sometimes worn withuot sleeves. Guarnello, being cotton or linen, may be registered in inventories with the rest of the biancheria --chemises (camicie), towels and kerchiefs. The guarnello, rascia or saia is the standard form of dress for angels. It is worn by children as a simple, washable garment, and possibly also by pregnant women. There aer also examples of guarnelli listed under items of male clothing[/quote] Из книги The Italian cotton industry in the later Middle Ages, 1100-1600 (Maureen Fennell Mazzaoui) [quote]Popular fabrics for the doublet were silk taffeta (ztndado) and sturdy cottons such as the boсcaramo, boccasino, and valesio. Levi Pisetzky, Storia del costume, 1, pp. 293 ff; 11, pp. 32-7; 111, pp. 131-4;[/quote] [quote]Cotton jackets and quilted doublets, both new and used, are listed in tariffs of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. Noto, Liber Datii, p. зо: 'Zacchi de fustaneo ... Zuponi de fustaneo.'[/b:8865ad649d] Ciavarini, Statuli Anconilani, 1, p. 176: [b]'giupones vcteres.' Cf. Uzzano, Delia deeima, p. 80.[/quote] [quote]In Florence the guild of rigattieri and linaioli made doublets and quilted coverlets.Sartini, Statuli, p. 331.[/quote] [quote]In Milan the materials used by the doublet makers were subject to inspection by the officials of the cotton guild. ASCM Statuta Artis Fustaneorum, fo. IOV. [/quote] [quoteIn Barcelona doublet and quilt makers also worked under the general auspices of the cotton and tailoring guilds. Carrere, Barcelone, pp. 372, 374, note 4. [/quote] [quote]Documents of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries record the existence of cotton doublet makers (pourointiers) in Paris. Fagniez, Etudes, pp. 373-375 'i:LI' Documents relatifs a d l'histoire de l'industrie et du commerce en France (Paris, 1898-1900), n, pp. 378-9.[/quote] [quote]In a list of cotton goods appearing in a fifteenth-century Milanese tariff, duties arc levied on ready-made cotton cotes. Noto, Liber Dalit, p. 20; 'Zornee de fustaneo.' The giornea and the gonna (simple tunic or robe) for both men and women were frequently made of boccasino or bombasina. The latter term also appears as a designation for these garments. Emilio Pandiani, 'Vita privata genovese nel Rinascimento,' Altli della Societa Ligure di Storia Patria, XLVII (1915),pp. 272-8, Levi Pisetzky, Storia del costume, II, p. 419.[/quote] Это лишь точечные цитатки из этих книг: The Italian cotton industry in the later Middle Ages, 1100-1600 (Maureen Fennell Mazzaoui) At the Centre of the Old World: Trade and Manufacturing in Venice and the Venetian Mainland, 1400-1800(Paola Lanaro) Dressing Renaissance Florence: Families, Fortunes, and Fine Clothing(Carole Collier Frick) Сообщение отредактировал Griet - 7.8.2012, 19:01 -------------------- To recreate the medieval period without compromise.(с)The Company of St. George
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